If you’re interested in Viridian at La Costa Greens, read more about the wonderful community of Carlsbad residents call home:
Many “transplants” to southern California were lured here by the sunshine, the clement weather, the leisurely pace of life, things that consistently conspire to keep us from getting anything done. Consequently, when you find yourself torn between a “to-do” list and the urge to relax, we recommend you take yourselves to Carlsbad. It’s a young, small city–one of those that merits the name “township,” or even “hamlet,” not only on account of its tidy size, but also the Old World associations that it inspires.
On Carlsbad Village Drive, the main street leading west from the highway, it is as common to see old men walking their lap dogs, and women with European-style pannier baskets hanging from their arms, as it is to see a skateboard or a bicycle cruise past in a flurry of sunburned legs and bleached hair. They could well be all headed for the same place. Twice a week, the Carlsbad Village Farmers’ Market can be found in the parking lot behind the bank, on Roosevelt Street. Like the open air markets of continental tradition, the Carlsbad market draws everyone to the center of town to trade commerce and conversation. Locals shop for dinner alongside tourists, kids roam with impunity past their slower-paced elders. There are vegetables, fruit and flowers grown on farms only a few miles distant, along with ready-made food of every description, as well as clothing, jewelry, toys and musical instruments.
Veggies at the Carlsbad Farmers' Market (photo from Village website)
In the farmers’ market, as in the city at large, we are free to wander with a sense of purpose. The local businesses are unobtrusive; they say more with their shop windows and sidewalk displays, than with signage and branding power. We find that the uniqueness of the city owes itself to the unique character of the people in it, and the ways they express themselves, especially in the context of their small, family-owned businesses. One such business is Famulare Jewelers, where we encountered Queen Nani, a Maltese puppy perched regally on top of a display case full of gold charms. She regarded us with mild interest and a certain amount of disdain for our surprise at her presence. Rita Famulare, a jeweler and designer of thirty years’ experience, showed us the tiny gemstone crown specially made for the dog, who attracts both lovers of fine jewelry and of animals to the shop regularly.
We learned that Carlsbad was not officially incorporated as a city until 1952; even then, the primary motive behind incorporation was to be distinct from the city of Oceanside, farther to the north. That same emphasis on independent character seems to imbue Carlsbad even now. We found a Starbucks in town, and we’re sure there must be a McDonald’s, but for the most part it seems that the residents prefer to support their own. A few neighborhood institutions facilitate this communal spirit in particular. The Paperback Book Exchange on Carlsbad Village Drive invites locals to share their libraries through trade as well as purchase, while the shop OBJ’s is a neighborhood standby for recycling fashion, specifically jeans, at its own dizzying rate of change.
Additionally, some of the area’s most iconic establishments were founded by self-made locals, who came from far off to practice their vocations. Just past the farmers’ market, former Toronto restauranteurs have opened Pronto’s, a gourmet grocery whose assembly of artisanal cheeses can only be described as lovingly done. While dithering over our selection, we were told about the Red Dahlia, a monthly supper club hosted by a San Francisco expat in La Costa, the neighborhood a little to the east. Hensley’s Flying Elephant, a pub and music joint whose sign looms over the freeway, was founded by the former accordion player in an Irish rock band.
Carlsbad was originally named by Czech and German settlers for its likeness to a health resort and spa in their homeland, and the town continues to produce homages to its Middle European roots. Most notably, Carlsbad has become a hot spot for craft beer and knockout pizza. Both these resources can be found in their highest form at Pizza Port, a brewery and restaurant on the main street, only six blocks from the ocean. Started as exclusively a pizza joint, the owners’ interest in home brewing attracted enough fans that they launched it as an coequal enterprise. Since the early ’90s, what is now known as Port Brewing claims the attention of the beer-drinking world, putting southern California on the microbrew map, and also entertains the community with several beer-themed festivals each year.
The various neighborhoods of Carlsbad contribute to a continuous cycle of festivals and street fairs. The Fiesta del Barrio is held in September each year, commemorating the region’s indigenous culture with troupes of dancers and musicians, traditional food, and a bazaar. The Fiesta is known as something of a family reunion for Carlsbad, drawing those with ties to the community back to revisit their personal history. Also in September, the two-day spectacle known as ArtSplash is held just above the Carlsbad flower fields. The event showcases art in every form–fine art, performance, and the extravagant chalk paintings that are the festival’s signature. The Carlsbad Music Festival, founded by a composer native to the area, touts performances and premiers by the frontline of modern classical musicians, perennially featuring a quartet of stellar local musicians.
Perhaps the town’s biggest event of the year is the Rotary Club-sponsored Oktoberfest. Beyond the obligatory German food, beer and oompah bands, the party presents magicians, clowns, antique fire engines, polka dancing and a pumpkin decorating contest to crowds that number in the thousands.
In the spring, the town capitalizes on its agricultural reputation with the annual Strawberry Festival. Vendor stands in the farmers’ market feature the seasonally prolific fruit, alongside cooking demonstrations and gardening experts who offer strawberry plants and consultation to would-be growers.
It is a working town, certainly, but also a vacation spot. Those who have lived long in the area seem to have caught the hang of putting the two together, infusing their daily lives with the spirit of vacation. We like it, and we’ll be back.
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